Wanderer

Journey: Wanderer
West Highland Way, Scotland -

Trip: West Highland Way, Scotland

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West Highland Way, Scotland -

Trip: West Highland Way, Scotland

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West Highland Way, Scotland -

Trip: West Highland Way, Scotland

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West Highland Way, Scotland -

Trip: West Highland Way, Scotland

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West Highland Way, Scotland -

Trip: West Highland Way, Scotland

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West Highland Way, Scotland -

Trip: West Highland Way, Scotland

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West Highland Way, Scotland -

Trip: West Highland Way, Scotland

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West Highland Way, Scotland -

Trip: West Highland Way, Scotland

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West Highland Way, Scotland -

Trip: West Highland Way, Scotland

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West Highland Way, Scotland -

Trip: West Highland Way, Scotland

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West Highland Way, Scotland -

Trip: West Highland Way, Scotland

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West Highland Way, Scotland -

Trip: West Highland Way, Scotland

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West Highland Way, Scotland -

Trip: West Highland Way, Scotland

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West Highland Way, Scotland -

Trip: West Highland Way, Scotland

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West Highland Way, Scotland -

Trip: West Highland Way, Scotland

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West Highland Way, Scotland -

Trip: West Highland Way, Scotland

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West Highland Way, Scotland -

Trip: West Highland Way, Scotland

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West Highland Way, Scotland -

Trip: West Highland Way, Scotland

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West Highland Way, Scotland -

Trip: West Highland Way, Scotland

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West Highland Way, Scotland -

Trip: West Highland Way, Scotland

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West Highland Way, Scotland -

Trip: West Highland Way, Scotland

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Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia -

Trip: Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia

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Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia -

Trip: Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia

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Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia -

Trip: Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia

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Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia -

Trip: Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia

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Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia -

Trip: Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia

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Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia -

Trip: Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia

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Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia -

Trip: Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia

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Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia -

Trip: Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia

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Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia -

Trip: Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia

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Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia -

Trip: Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia

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Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia -

Trip: Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia

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Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia -

Trip: Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia

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Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia -

Trip: Selvaggio Blu, Sardinia

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Kumano Kodo, Japan - There are five main routes to the Kumano Kodo, a network of trails in the Kii mountains connecting the sacred spiritual sites of ancient Japan. We hiked the Kohechi (Mountainous) Route and the second half of the Nakahechi (Imperial) Route. .Hiro shows us our route. Temples in Japan are denoted by the ancient Sanskrit symbol, manji. Because it is sometimes confused with a swastika the country is considering changing this on maps for foreigners in advance of the 2020 olympic games. 

Trip: Kumano Kodo, Japan

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Kumano Kodo, Japan - Together we dare to go further than we would alone. So we ventured out into the strange and unknown. Not just dipping our toes in but going for the deep dive of immersive experience. It was an exploration of place and self.

Trip: Kumano Kodo, Japan

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Kumano Kodo, Japan -

Trip: Kumano Kodo, Japan

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Kumano Kodo, Japan -

Trip: Kumano Kodo, Japan

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Kumano Kodo, Japan - The Kumano Kodo is one of two UNESCO World Heritage pilgrimage routes, the other being the Way of St. James (Camino de Santiago). A “Dual Pilgrim Passport” program was created to celebrate and honor those who complete both pilgrimage routes. There are 2 sides to the passport, one for the Kumano Kodo and the other for the Way of St James. Pilgrims collect stamps along the trail as a record of the walk. Some days we saw just one stamping station while other days we earned four stamps!

Trip: Kumano Kodo, Japan

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Kumano Kodo, Japan -

Trip: Kumano Kodo, Japan

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Kumano Kodo, Japan - Camping at will is not allowed on the Kumano Kodo. We left the forest and trail after each segment, coming out of the woods each night to a new village. In this case it was a very remote one with no amenities. There was one road, no stoplight, one tiny (closed) shop attached to the house closest to the road. Our only option was to stay with locals who are equipped for welcoming pilgrims, of which there are only a handful. 

Trip: Kumano Kodo, Japan

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Kumano Kodo, Japan - Slow down so much you notice what you notice.

Trip: Kumano Kodo, Japan

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Kumano Kodo, Japan - For the first few days of the Kohechi we arrived at a vantage point from which it was possible to look back at the peaks and ridges we had traveled the previous day.

Trip: Kumano Kodo, Japan

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Kumano Kodo, Japan -

Trip: Kumano Kodo, Japan

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Kumano Kodo, Japan - THIS WOMAN .. In retrospect, sometimes the highlight of a trip isn’t where you walked or what you saw but who you met. @kyoko_vendome is not only a remarkable artist, successful on a large scale but also known in the region for giving back, financially supporting trail maintenance and designing graphics that promote tourism to the historic sites of Kumano Hongu. With her joy, enthusiasm, local knowledge and boundless energy it’s no surprise she is in high demand as a mountain guide for the limited number of engagements she does each year.

Trip: Kumano Kodo, Japan

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Kumano Kodo, Japan - @kyoko_vendome is not only a remarkable artist, successful on a large scale but also known in the region for giving back, financially supporting trail maintenance and designing graphics that promote tourism to the historic sites of Kumano Hongu. With her joy, enthusiasm, local knowledge and boundless energy it’s no surprise she is in high demand as a mountain guide for the limited number of engagements she does each year.

Trip: Kumano Kodo, Japan

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Kumano Kodo, Japan -

Trip: Kumano Kodo, Japan

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Kumano Kodo, Japan -

Trip: Kumano Kodo, Japan

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Desolation Wilderness California - We are blessed again with sunny blue skies. We said our thanks to the goddess Dagala who watched us over in Bhutan and continues to be our weather guardian.

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - The last remaining unused item in our backpacks: our swimsuits. We went for a cold plunge and dried out on a large flat rock warmed by the sun. 

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - On the return journey we made time to stop and enjoy Maud Lake.

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - Free and renewable energy thanks to the solar panel and sunshine on Dagmara’s backpack! 

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - Dagmara was geeked by her backpack with a built-in solar panel. It worked but did the wow factor justify the extra pack weight?

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - Rock, rock and more rock. Rockbound Pass lives up to its name.

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - We ran into a group from LA headed into Desolation as we were leaving. They reported spotting a mama bear with her cubs, so we stayed alert.

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - Some of the snow had melted from the stone steps while we were gone, revealing a more direct route than the one we took on our way in. 

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - A makeshift bridge was the only way to reach our campsite at Lake Lois..

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - We knew the hike back was no picnic, so we cleaned up the campsite and hit the trail. Notice how bundled up we are? We passed a couple who like us, had chosen Lake Lois for their campsite. Unlike us, they chose the warm, sunny side! They were enjoying breakfast and a relaxing morning coffee in shorts and T-shirts. We had so much to learn!

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - After another night of howling winds and very restless sleep, we wake up in the morning to this beautiful sight of Lake Lois!

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Havasupai - The backpack inside a duffel has been our preferred method for checked baggage on airplanes. 

Trip: Havasupai

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Havasupai - The last mile out of the Grand Canyon was grueling. Jenny, Missy and Dagmara rest while waiting for the others. 

Trip: Havasupai

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Havasupai - We started hiking out of the Havasu campsite at 5am, with headlamps, to beat the mid-day heat. We’ve only the hardest section remaining, a 1 mile 2000 foot ascent to the top of the trailhead.

Trip: Havasupai

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Havasupai - The view from our tent in Havasu Campground.  

Trip: Havasupai

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Havasupai - Havasu Creek.

Trip: Havasupai

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Havasupai - Dagmara and Jenny.

Trip: Havasupai

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Havasupai - Waterproof pouch necessary when you’re about to climb down to the bottom of a waterfall.

Trip: Havasupai

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Havasupai - The Havasu Creek water flows from Havasu Falls right behind our campsite. These waters descend 1400 feet, passing over 5 waterfalls, the highest being Mooney Falls with a drop of 200 feet.

Trip: Havasupai

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Havasupai - Location, location, location. A campsite right by the creek is prime real estate.

Trip: Havasupai

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Havasupai - We missed out on getting our own camping permit so plan B was to sign up for a group excursion with an outfitter. For 2019, the Havasupai tribal council put a moratorium on outfitter permits so we feel very lucky to have gone in 2017.

Trip: Havasupai

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Havasupai - It’s hard to resist a look back at Havasu Falls on our way to the campsite.

Trip: Havasupai

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Havasupai - The moon shines bright above Havasu Canyon

Trip: Havasupai

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Havasupai - Entering Havasupai village, the most remote of the many Indian lands in Arizona. About 450 people live here in 130 homes. The Supai follow a traditional way of life, with few modern conveniences other than satellite dishes and air conditioning. There are 2 general stores, a cafe, a rodeo corral, a school and a post office, the only one in the US where mail is still delivered by mule.

Trip: Havasupai

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Havasupai - Havasu Creek, a year round stream that will flow into Supai Village and form the 5 waterfalls with the improbable aquamarine water.

Trip: Havasupai

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Havasupai - The high canyon walls provide some much-needed shade after hiking in the punishing sun.

Trip: Havasupai

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Havasupai - Our campsite is beyond that curve in the canyon and it looks very far away (and exposed!). It’s difficult to imagine that a waterfall even exists in this parched desert canyon. We hope the gallon of water in our backpacks is enough for the hot and very dusty 10 mile hike.

Trip: Havasupai

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Havasupai - Jenny flew in from London the day before the 6am pick up time for our Havasupai adventure. Adrenaline and excitement got her up before dawn to make sure her pack was ready with plenty of water and snacks for the long hike into the Grand Canyon to see the famous blue-green waterfalls of Havasupai.

Trip: Havasupai

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Mallorca, Spain - We’re in love with Mallorca! Its lush vegetation, amazing mountains, and majestic blue waters are etched in our minds. We will be back.

Trip: Mallorca, Spain

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Mallorca, Spain - Don’t look down if you’re afraid of heights! But how could you not when the water is so mesmerizing.

Trip: Mallorca, Spain

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Mallorca, Spain - We carried a mandatory 2 liters of water each day and we were reminded by our guides every 20 minutes via walkie-talkies to “hydrate, hydrate, hydrate.” 

Trip: Mallorca, Spain

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Mallorca, Spain - Ceding the right-of-way to the Mallorcan Army on a training run. They’re carrying their training weapons and a heavy backpack of kit. 

Trip: Mallorca, Spain

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Mallorca, Spain - Modern pilgrims hiking on these ancient cobbled paths to the Sa Trapa Monastery. 

Trip: Mallorca, Spain

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Mallorca, Spain - Jeremy, a guide, helps Steven, a guest, fill up his Camelbak while glasses of freshly squeezed orange juice are laid out on the table waiting for us.

Trip: Mallorca, Spain

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Mallorca, Spain - The Ashram program is quite small, only 14 guests per session. Maarit lives in Sweden but is from Finland. She is an avid hiker and loves to travel. You can always find Maarit at the front of any hike.

Trip: Mallorca, Spain

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Mallorca, Spain - The views from this coastal path are amazing!

Trip: Mallorca, Spain

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Mallorca, Spain - The beautiful cove beach of Cala Tuent was the start of our 7 mile hike. 

Trip: Mallorca, Spain

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Mallorca, Spain - Mateo prepares the boat that will take us to the other side of the island to begin our hike. All of our guides were so warm and hospitable. We loved learning about Mallorca from them.

Trip: Mallorca, Spain

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Mallorca, Spain - The Cala Tuent trail requires a boat ride to a remote beach for access to the trailhead. Notice the plastic bag of freshly sliced ginger in Jenny’s hand. Chewing on ginger helps to prevent seasickness.

Trip: Mallorca, Spain

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Mallorca, Spain - All smiles after finishing a 10 mile, 2700 feet elevation gain hike. 

Trip: Mallorca, Spain

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Mallorca, Spain - It’s a cool day in Mallorca but we remind ourselves to stay hydrated when we stop to take a picture.

Trip: Mallorca, Spain

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Mallorca, Spain - Dagmara and Jenny love challenging hikes and Mallorca delivers with its towering mountains. 

Trip: Mallorca, Spain

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Mallorca, Spain - You never know what you’ll happen upon when you’re hiking in the mountains.

Trip: Mallorca, Spain

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Mallorca, Spain - Jaclyn, Jenny, Dagmara and Missy are all smiles at the start of their 10 mile hike from Bunyola to Orient. We’re about to start our 2700 feet ascent!

Trip: Mallorca, Spain

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Mallorca, Spain - It’s still early in the morning and Jenny and Maarit respectfully stay quiet as we hike through the village of Bunyola to the nearby trailhead.

Trip: Mallorca, Spain

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Mallorca, Spain - Our first full-day hike started in the quaint and traditional village of Bunyola. These stone stairs worn with time made us think of the history of this beautiful island, settled over 1000 years ago by the Moors.

Trip: Mallorca, Spain

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Desolation Wilderness California - We were getting very worried when we ran into these two park rangers doing some much-needed trail maintenance. They directed us back to the trail, granted our selfie request and accepted one of our snack bars. Before we parted ways, they asked to see our camping permit. “Uhh, would you believe we left that in camp as well?” Lesson learned: don’t leave home without it; any of it.

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - We completely lost the trail after the Four Q Lakes, and our Garmin power was so low we were only using it to spot-check our location every 10 minutes. It was going to be a challenge to get back to our campsite before sundown.

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - We had read it was difficult to follow the trail here across granite slopes, crossing streams and spending lots of time focused on navigation, and it was. It’s difficult to tell if small piles of rocks here and there are “ducks” marking the trail, or a divergent path. We followed a fair amount of false leads but it’s worth it when you see grand vistas like this.

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - The scenic beauty of this remote area keeps getting better with each turn, but we now know navigating this trail requires full attention, and a navigation device. It is not adequately marked for first-timers.

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - We secured our campsite and set out to explore the McConnell Lake Loop, one of the most beautiful hikes in Tahoe. It’s an unmaintained trail that’s reported as challenging to navigate. We felt prepared with paper maps and a fully charged Garmin but made some inexperienced choices, like leaving the spare batteries in the tent.

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - It looks idyllic, and it had definitely been a choice campsite for campers before us, but our inexperience hurt us here. This site on this day, downwind of a snow covered slope was like camping in an open-air refrigerator. We were so eager to set up camp it did not occur to us to keep shopping for a warmer spot. Instead, I rued the decision to leave my down jacket behind. 

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - The tree should be 50-100 yards from the campsite so if the food does attract a bear, she does not go wandering around the campsite looking for tasty tidbits lower to the the ground, like sunscreen or toothpaste. People online recommended putting any scented toiletries in the bear bag overnight as well.

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - I started wondering how we smell to bears as we walk along the path, even during the daytime. Was it safe to carry any food at all? I watched 4-5 YouTube videos on choosing an appropriate hanging spot for the bag and more knots to know (thank you Girl Scouts!) for tying the bag to the tree. There are also YouTube videos of bears going after canisters campers had left on the ground or inadequately hung. The bears are very persistent! They usually succeed in demolishing the food supply and teaching a lesson to the hungry campers.

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - A bear canister for storing your food is required when camping in Desolation, and we came prepared with an Ursack, made of a specially designed bear-proof material that is lightweight and easier to fit in your pack than a big canister. The point of it is to hang the bag high in a tree and on a branch far enough from the main trunk so the bear can’t reach it from the ground or from on the tree. It came with instructions on tying a bear-proof knot. Wait…bears can untie knots?!

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - Lake Doris

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - Our celebratory summit pic at the the red fir tree at the top of Rockbound Pass: 8650 ft

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - Some of the “rocks” were Volkswagon-sized.

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - After we had packed up the pared-down gear, the bear-bag, food, clothing and water we submitted to the scale. Even with the better, borrowed gear distributed amongst the four of us, our packs had initially ranged from 34-44 pounds. Choices had to be made.

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - We passed several beautiful lakes along the way, but did not linger. Soon the trail became rocky and steep, and it was a long way to the campsite.

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - The Desolation Wilderness is wide open slabs of granite. Some sections of the trail are indicated by stone borders or cairns.

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - We stopped to get a big-picture sense of where we were and what was around us by looking at an old school paper map.

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - Removing our boots for a deep creek crossing in chilly meltwater was a welcome refresher for our feet.

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - The night we had arrived to Cedar House Mike and Patty held a gear check for us and we practiced setting up the tents we rented and made sure we had all the components. Our target pack weight was 28-30 pounds.

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Desolation Wilderness California - We had little to no camping experience, and the Rockbound Pass McConnell Lakes Loop hike was remote and challenging. Let’s do this!

Trip: Desolation Wilderness California

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - The Kanchenjunga range was our backdrop as we hiked from Gur to Labatama on Day 2 of our trek. Stacey and our guide look for Blue Poppies, the national flower of Bhutan.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - This final picture of us in Bhutan in front of the Buddha Dordenma statue perfectly captures our mood: gratitude for the time spent, exhilaration for what we accomplished, and contentment for the peace we discovered in the mountains. Thank you Bhutan!

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - A horse gets to munch on some grass during a quick break before our final descent. Their loads are much lighter now that we’ve eaten all of the food and used up all the cooking fuel.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - The clouds are gaining on us as we make our way across the final mountain pass.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - Looking back on where we hiked across the Dagala mountain range.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - Our last day of trekking! It has been an incredible experience hiking the Dagala Thousand Lakes Trek with this group. We take a moment to celebrate our journey thus far and to say thanks to friends who made our days here brighter and more memorable.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - Dagmara plays bartender with the water purifying tablets and powdered electrolytes.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - Sometimes the horses would rather hang with us at the campsite than roam free.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - Dagmara is a pro at fire building, thanks to her years in Girl Scouts and Latvian Girl Guides.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - Sonali took advantage of a soft patch of grass and sunshine. A quick snooze on the trail can rejuevnate you for the next section ahead.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - Dagmara spearheaded the planning of our Bhutan trek. And as usual, she made sure the weather cooperated and delivered blue skies every day! She had a little help from Dagala, the mountain goddess.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - This rock formation looks like a frog with pursed lips. 

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - We’re alone in this vast, open landscape. We chose the Dagala Trek for being more off-the-beaten-path, but it is strange to trek without another soul in sight. The positive side is that it affords plenty of time for introspection and reflection.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - Yaks are mammals and have udders just like their cow cousins, but yaks do not moo, they grunt.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - Hiking to our next destination: Panka. The trail is rugged and remote.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - Overnight at our campsite in Labatama, the temperatures plummeted. We tucked metal water bottles filled with boiling water into our sleeping bags to keep warm. 

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - Rock formation Rorshach Test: what do you see?

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - The cairn at Pagalabtsa pass, 13,910 feet. For Buddhists, the construction of a cairn is a form of worship and a way to ask for good fortune. In Bhutan, you’ll find cairns covered in prayer flags, blessing the surrounding area and promoting peace. 

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - Tent building in progress thanks to our guides. Unfortunately, this is an oft-used campsite and it was not thoroughly cleaned by the previous group(s.) There was no way we could relax and enjoy the beautiful setting with trash everywhere. It was heartbreaking. Much to the guides’ surprise and amusement, we picked up every last piece of litter. The next morning we discussed the “leave no trace” principles. It was an interesting cultural exchange. Of course, they have the utmost respect for nature and are longstanding career guides, they just prioritize things differently. After that, we left no trace.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - The horses and horseman have already unloaded the gear at our campsite near Gur at 10,794 feet. The horses are taking the rest of the day off. Some of them are allowed to roam freely, and are rustled back up in the morning.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - We have arrived at our campsite for Day 1 of the Dagala Trek.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - Actually, this trek was Sonali’s idea. She lives in Dubai, but knew Dagmara from her time in Chicago. We were cooking up a plan to meet somewhere to hike, and she picked Bhutan.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - Tsheten and our first day’s lunch spot on a huge rock platform overlooking the valley below.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - The horses carrying our camp gear quickly passed us. Hope there’s an extra carrot in those sacks for this cutie.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - It’s a quick ascent on our way to Gur as we walk along the coniferous forest. Other than a government-owned cabin for nomads, these were the last structures we would see for the entire trek.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - We can’t believe we’re in Bhutan hiking the Dagala Trek! And the blue sky is such a surprise. The forecast was for rain every day and our guide Tsheten had warned us that rain is inevitable. He had never taken a group on this trek at this time of year without rain. Will the weather gods be good to us?

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - Jenny is so excited to be starting this trek in Bhutan! 

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - North Face: perhaps a missed sponsorship opportunity? Our next trek is available for sponsorship!

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - Gear for our 4-day, 3-night trek along the Dagala Trek route is packed and loaded into woven sacks that will be strapped onto horses. We were travelling with a pack of 10 horses and their very capable horseman.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - Adventure time! Packs on and ready to start the Dagala Thousand Lakes Trek in Bhutan.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - The Tiger’s Nest looks down upon a beautiful valley of blue pines.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - Money shot with Tiger’s Nest in the background.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - The prayer flags are encouraging us to keep on the trail toward the Tiger’s Nest.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - The Tiger’s Nest is one of the most sacred sites in Bhutan and an iconic landmark. Legend has it that in 7th century AD, Guru Rimpoche flew to the site atop the back of a tigress and meditated in a cave for 3 years, 3 months, 3 days, and 3 hours in order to subdue the evil spirits residing within it. A trip to Bhutan would not be complete without the hike to the Tiger’s Nest.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - Discussing the trail with our freindly Bhutanese guide Tsheten Dorji! Bhutanese men and women wear their traditional costumes during the work day. For men, they wear a Gho which is a knee-length robe that is wrapped around their bodies and secured with a belt. The best part is that the upper area is used as a pouch and stores things like cell phones or papers.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Bhutan Dagala Trek - Paro, Bhutan is at 2200 meter above sea level so we wanted to get acclimated right away. We set out to explore the area.

Trip: Bhutan Dagala Trek

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Dolomites, Italy - All in a day’s trek: Dolomites day 1

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - The Contrin River was running fast. It made me think of the chocolate river in Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - The next two sections we hiked are connected by popular towns, so we encountered more day hikers.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - Missy picked a WILD pattern for her Dirty Girl gaiters.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - We took full advantage of the loungers on the Col de Cuk deck while we waited for our pizza in Canazei.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - Closer to town we encountered a few other groups; one French, one British.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - The spongy terrain was a welcome change from rocks and scree.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - Our lunch destination: Col de Cuk at the edge of the reservoir ahead in Canazei. They’re known for their amazing pizza!

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - Marika! She is the perfect guide: knowledgeable, confident, friendly, and proud of her home and region.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - As we approached Col di Lana, our rest stop for the night, we paused to visit the Sacrario Germanico del Passo Pordoi, a WWI memorial.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - Top Set Trekkers Dolomites group

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - Vie ferrata are scattered throughout the Dolomites. This one is close enough to the Rifugio Franz Kostner to allow for a fun morning diversion. You can see how far we’ve come! The rifugio is just out of the shot to the right.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - We both reached for our cameras at the same time. 

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - Going down isn’t always easier than going up.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - We were in high spirits, looking forward to the next challenge.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - Marika knows this section of the Dolomites well. She grew up here.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - After we had hiked the first section we could look back and see Corvara again, far below.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - Trail 666 and it felt…unforgiving.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - Our refuge for the night was just above the ferrata end point, Rifugio Cavazza al Pisciadù. It looks awfully close but that last eighth of a mile can be hard.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - After a coffee break, we met up with our ferrata guide, Marco. He brought our harnesses and helmets for the Via Ferrata Tridentina.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - Today’s hiking was shorter and more level. Until the ferrata, that is.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - Thankfully, the weather had cleared overnight and we were on the trail by 7:30 am. Our path hugged the mountains to the left and then turned left between them, to Corvara in Badia.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - It’s always interesting to wake up and see where you are, especially when you arrived in the evening, in pouring rain and little visibility.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - We arrived drenched, having escaped the ire of some very territorial goats, to Rifugio Puez, a busy, “bare bones” hostel with four sets of bunk beds per room. It was a welcome sight nonetheless. We changed out of our wet clothes, enjoyed a warm meal and shared photos and thoughts from our first day.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - Right of the scree field and beyond is where we started our day.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - We are climbing straight up and over using this narrow cut-out in the rock, with the help of occasional iron hand and foot holds and a cable-railing.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - Here the terrain changed. There was a narrow chute and some boulder scrambling.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - In Italy, the trail signs are painted on rocks. And rocks are prone to crumbling or chipping away.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - Our first day was the longest. We paused to enjoy the view we had earned at just over the halfway mark.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - Scree can be fun if you are on your way down. Heading up and across is another matter.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - Lunch break finished, we assessed our next challenge: to cross this scree field.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - It’s truly amazing this place exists here, in the remote alps. They offer lodging too, but it is very rustic.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy -

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - Hiking is about patience and persistence. Your destination looks far away, maybe you can’t even see it, but you keep putting one foot in front of the other and the miles tick away.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy -

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - Hiking into the unknown with our fearless group, along Sass Pütia.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - After the warm-up hike we regrouped on the lawn, assessed our gear choices and shedded quite a bit of unnecessary weight.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - California, Oregon, Illinois, Maine and the UK: we’ve come together from both coasts, the midwest and across the pond.

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites, Italy - No such thing as to-go cups of coffee in Italy. You sit and enjoy your coffee in a proper cup!

Trip: Dolomites, Italy

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Norway - Top Set Trekkers: Norway with our intrepid guide Jon at the summit of Mount Saksa.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - Safely back at the original Saksa summit, we gather to sign the logbook.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - The five of us couldn’t fit standing on the second summit. We had to kneel, balance carefully and lean in to the center.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - Just over the edge there is a cable handrail to help you access the saddle connecting the two peaks.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - Now you see why this mountain is called “saksa” or scissors. It looks like a giant pair of scissors with the tips buried in the earth. The two knobs are the handles.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - We couldn’t resist. “If it’s a trail, we will find a way to hike it.”

Trip: Norway

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Norway - Jenny F and Jenny G, friends from when they both were living in Portland, OR.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - At the far end of Hjørundfjord (sword-fjord) is the town of Øye, where we spent the night in the charming historic Union Hotel Øye.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - Jenny F from Portland, OR and Helen C from Houston, TX did not know one another before this trip.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - This is the last hike of our trip. Saksa means scissors, something we will discover later…

Trip: Norway

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Norway - On our way up Mt. Saksa, Jon shows us a bear cave. We decide to come back later to pay the bear a visit.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - Jon was a kayaking guide before he was hired by Norway Adventures to guide us. In Geirangerfjord he was happily in his element. That, or he was relieved to muffle the voices of seven gregarious women for a short while. 🙂

Trip: Norway

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Norway - Seven Sisters Waterfall, Geirangerfjord Norway

Trip: Norway

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Norway - It’s impossible to pick one best moment from the trip, but this was one of them.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - It was too enticing to pass up. Spontaneous frivolity is part of the bonding experience.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - Geirangerfjord is among the world’s longest and deepest, and considered an archetypical fjord landscape, among the most scenically outstanding anywhere.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - Stacey lives in Monterey, and among us is the one with the most experience kayaking.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - Blue skies-Helen is skirted up and ready.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - The clouds have cleared! Let’s get going!

Trip: Norway

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Jenny
Jenny:

Welcome back!! Your Utah trip looked amazing!! Do you feel ready for Rainier?? I got my waterproof socks and they’re hilarious. Feels like a wetsuit inside but a sock on the outside.

Norway - Dagmara loves ferratas!

Trip: Norway

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Norway - And now a short break to get the money shot with her LifeStraw for Helen’s friends in Houston.

Trip: Norway

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - We’re on the right path back to the parking lot. Next time, we’ll ascend the Baldy Bowl trail and descend the Devil’s Backbone trail. So many options on Mt Baldy!

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - Third time’s a charm with the self-timer photo.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - Enjoying one of the carved wooden benches at the Ski Hut.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - We love the rugged landscape of Mt. Baldy.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - As you hike down towards the Ski Hut, you reach a boulder field area.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - Our hiking poles will come in handy on this steep trail.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - After a well-deserved lunch break at the summit, we descend towards the Baldy Bowl trail.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Jenny
Jenny:

I have our salads and snack bag. Dagmara, which salad is yours?

Dagmara
Dagmara:

The curry-apple-chicken one.

Malibu / Mt. Baldy - Thank you lucky penny!

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - This is the smile after you find a lucky penny on the trail.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - A lucky penny!

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - Do you see it? Hint: It’s Abe.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - We love the perspective of the blue sky, rocky terrain and the snow-covered shrub. We love hiking in California!

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - Looking back towards the spine-tingling Devil’s Backbone Trail.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - On our way to the Baldy summit, we hiked along this very exposed and narrow path cut into the rock face.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - One last picture before we hike up the ridge line.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - A smattering of snow on the way to the summit.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - We decided to approach Mt Baldy from the Devil’s Backbone. The route takes us along this tantalizing spine which starts from The Notch and leads to the summit of Mt Baldy. The Devil’s Backbone Trail is 3.3 miles long with 2,350 feet of elevation gain.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - We’re so grateful for our hiking friends!

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - A table with a view!

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - We’re the only ones at The Notch – no footprints in the freshly made snow.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - What do you do when you come upon a rope swing? You try it out of course! It was the perfect ending to a great hike.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - The dark clouds suddenly rolled in and the temperature dropped. We quickly grabbed our waterproofs when the hail started to come down.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - Is that hail??

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - This view has everything – mountains, trails, and blue sky. Topanga State Park is a great hiking destination.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - We love fellow hikers – thank you hiker for taking our photo!

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - Deborah is loving the California sun.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - Super donna pose!

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - In case you were wondering, hiking skorts are quite comfortable!

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - The bench dedicated to the Keyhole 7 who perished in a flash flood in Utah. Topanga State Park was their neighborhood hiking grounds.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - We love our Top Set Trekkers hats!

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Norway - Before we left Skålabu, we made sure to chop new ice to melt on the potbelly stove for the next travelers.

Trip: Norway

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - Jenny

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - Trails and mountains as far as the eye can see.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - You can see the Pacific Ocean in the background.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - Is it obvious that Dagmara’s favorite colors are blue and purple?

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - Stacey spies our lunch spot – at the top of the rock!

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - Take one, leave one. We saw this adorable lending library on the trail when we hiked through a residential neighborhood. We love the concept of sharing a good book.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - Deborah

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - Clear skies, clear trails and a smile from ear to ear: is there anything better?

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - Selfie success!

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - Dagmara leading us on a trail over the mountains.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Norway - Missy

Trip: Norway

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Norway - The luxury of clean, safe water was a plus. It was nice and cold too.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - Jenny

Trip: Norway

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Norway - We settled into a rhythm hiking this section of gentle grassy switchbacks past the tree line. We drifted into pods of two or three, taking the time to catch up, or get to know one another better.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - This compact, lightweight device allows you to safely drink directly from streams and lakes. @jon.meiholt had assured us the water in Norway is 100% safe without filtration (and it was!) but it was fun to test the @LifeStraw for future trips.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - Packs up and ready to hit the trail.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - Headed back to the van and the beach below.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - Helen

Trip: Norway

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Norway - Grotle, Norway: the trailhead for Veten Cliff

Trip: Norway

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Norway - There was no real trail at first. We just scrambled up the hillside above the beach.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - I have never seen a nicer trailhead facility; heated too.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - Veten cliff

Trip: Norway

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Norway - Jon didn’t hesitate. He slapped on his new Top Set Trekker cap and got right to business.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - This big open meadow leads to an overlook at the far edge, Veten Cliff

Trip: Norway

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Dagmara
Dagmara:

OMG did that really just happen? How perfect for our shirt reveal!

Jenny
Jenny:

I know. Let’s do it tonight at dinner.

Norway - We had the trail largely to ourselves, though we did encounter a few locals out trail running. One, who we nicknamed “supergirl” blitzed past us when we were just 20 minutes from the summit. We shouted encouragements to her and she tucked in and went for it, sailing by in her tank top and running shorts, her long sleeve shirt tied around her neck, floating like a cape. On her way back down, she thanked us. It had not been a PB she said, but she was pleased with her time, and off she went. The women’s record for the race: 1 hour, 20 minutes and 6 seconds.

Trip: Norway

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Malibu / Mt. Baldy - We needed a warm-up hike before tackling Mt Baldy. This inland hike in Topanga State Park was just the ticket.

Trip: Malibu / Mt. Baldy

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Norway - After a brief stop to regroup and have a snack, fill water bottles, we encountered snow, and the trail was harder to follow.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - We paid our respects to Herr Munch as we passed by.

Trip: Norway

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Norway - Bergen Railway: Oslo-Bergen

Trip: Norway

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Norway - Summit at last. Success.

Trip: Norway

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